Wednesday, February 3, 2010

I giorni della Merla (The days of the Blackbird)


According to Northern Italian Folklore the last 3 days of January are called "I giorni della Merla" (the days of the Blackbird), and they are believed to be the coldest days of Winter. Although studies have proven this to not be scientifically accurate, popular beliefs have more to do with feeling and perception than with scientific research. Studies show that actually these 3 days are about 1C warmer than the average for the month of January, but couldn't it be that we may feel the cold more? Maybe because we are getting tired of Winter, or maybe because our body is running out of the fat it stored to ward off the cold, or perhaps our wood pile is dwindling and we are being a little more conservative about heating our house....

One legend says that Blackbirds were originally white. One year, the last 3 days of January were so cold and bitter that a female blackbird and her babies sought shelter inside a chimney. On the 1st day of February they emerged completely black, and have been that colour ever since. Another version tells the story of a beautiful white bird that, always tormented by the harshness of Januray (that originally lasted only 28 days), decided to store food and live in hiding the entire month. She emerged from her shelter and mocked January, who in turn, vindicated himself by borrowing 3 days from February and throwing at the bird his most fierce winter storms. The poor bird hid in a chimney and emerged once again, completely black.

Popular beliefs also use these days to forecast Spring weather. If the days of the blackbird are cold, a nice Spring will arrive soon, if they are mild, Spring will be arriving late. For many years farmers used these guidelines (and others) to plan their planting.

I also found another semi-historical story about these notorious days. Toward the end of the 1700s, the last three days of January had been so cold that the River Po froze completely. This allowed Napoleon Bonaparte's troops to transport a huge cannon from one side of the river to the other, and with it they defeated the Austrians. This cannon was named: Merla.

Winter is not my favourite season, although I do like the snow, I enjoy watching it fall, while sipping hot cocoa by a roaring fire. I like playing in it, making snow angels, and buildings snowmen with the kids. And what a bright and fantastic vision, to wake up to a white blanket of fresh snow, fallen unexpectedly during the night!

But, given my relatioship with food, one of the greatest pleasures that Winter brings to my taste buds, comes in the form of a bowlful of hot, wholesome, nourishing soup. And, as I get as much enjoyment from cooking as I do from eating, I love busying myself in front of a bubbling pot filling my kitchen with steam and the heart-warming aroma of basic nourishment.

This soup I threw together with what I had on hand, when I found myself craving heat, energy and hearty flavour during one of the bitter "Giorni della Merla".

MERLA SOUP (I assure you, no bird was harmed in the making of this soup)

Ingredients for 4-5 portions:

Olive oil
1 cup sliced swiss chard stalks
1/4 cup chopped celery
1/3 sliced leeks
(these 3 ingredients, I usually have on hand frozen. Whenever I buy the fresh produce to use in a recipe, I freeze the excess, already chopped or sliced, for future uses)
2 TBS chopped onion
2 quarts vegetable broth (hot)
1 cup frozen peas
1 potato
1 carrot
1 zucchini
1/2 cup of rice
2 sage leaves
2 sprigs of thyme
salt and pepper to taste
Grana cheese

Coat a soup pot or large sauce pan with olive oil. Sautée swiss chard, celery, leeks and onion until just golden.
Add the frozen peas and and sprinkle 1 tsp of coarse salt. Coat with pan juices for 2 minutes, add one cup of hot broth, cover and simmer for about 10-15 minutes, adding broth if necessary.
Cut the potato and carrot into thick slices. Sautée in olive oil, in separate pan, with the thyme, for about 5 minutes.
When the liquid in the pot is completely evaporated, add 1TBS of olive oil and  the rice. Stir to coat and cook for 2-3 minutes. Add about 1 quart of  hot broth and the sage leaves. Simmer for about 15 minutes, adding hot broth if necessary.
Cut the zucchini in thick slices and add to potato and carrot. Add some oil if necessary. Sautée about 5 minuets, until all vegetables are golden brown but still hold their consistency.

When rice is about 3/4 cooked, adjust the soup for flavour and add broth to favourite consistency. This soup should be quite thick, but of course use your own preference.

Add the sautéed vegetables and stir very gently, as to not break the delicate zucchini.
Let the soup simmer for about 5-10 minutes to give all flavours time to blend. Check that rice and all veggies are ready, adjust for consistency and salt and pepper.
Serve very hot, with a drizzle of olive oil and a generous sprinkling of Grana cheese.
I completed this soup with a bruschetta, topped with left-over ratatouille and shaved Grana.
Buon appetito!

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